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How do you still Copper or Stainless Steel?


How do you still

Copper or Stainless Steel?

By: Jessica Bunker


In the distilling industry and in backyards around the world there are two main materials used for building stills, copper and stainless steel. Which one is preferred and or better to use to distill moonshine, essential oils and other distilled substances?

Copper conducts heat very well making it the perfect material to use in distilling unlike stainless steel and its low heat conducting capabilities. Copper also removes sulfur compounds and that is very important because you want all impurities that could ruin your products final taste and smell removed.

The copper also improves the final product and enhances your mash! With stainless steel your distilling process would take more time and effort to remove sulfur and other impurities. The Distillery Network, Inc. has a new and improved way to distill with their new Flame-Flow™ Design. That saves you time and money when it comes to heating up your stills! Their stills are all Copper making for a better final product.

Copper out of the two is the more expensive choice it is also easier to bend shape and mold however you’d like. Stainless steel is a cheaper material in cost but is usually takes industrial grade equipment to form. So where you’re spending more money on copper it is much more cost effective when it comes to making the material move, bend and shape. Copper is also much easier to join together because the temperatures can be lower where it takes stainless steel a much higher temperature to be joined however there is no led with stainless steel.

Many distillers and customers have concerns when it comes to stills and the use of copper and the joining process. Most solder is lead based and you need solder to join your copper pieces together. Anytime the word lead pops up there is a concern that it could seep into your final product. Many distillers and “backyarders” use the lead solder because it is less expensive. However there are good companies like The Distillery Network Inc. who produce copper stills only using lead free silver solder making their products all lead free!

When looking at both copper and stainless steel copper takes the cake for what is preferred to make in a still. Copper is better for distilling water, spirits and essential oils. As pointed out above copper takes out sulfides, and by removing them you get a finer taste and the aroma of the final product is much more refined.

Stainless steel is the easier choice when it comes to cleaning a still. There are many products on the market you can get to clean stainless organic and with chemicals. Copper is a material that is more time consuming to clean. However there are many organic products you can use like lemon and salt, vinegar and salt, or even ketchup. All you have to do is make a paste and rub away the tarnish and shin with a dry cloth!

All in all copper stills are the way to go! They will last you a lifetime and produce a much more refined and exquisite final product. All stills produced by the Distillery Network, Inc. and 100% guaranteed, also because they are all copper they are guaranteed to give you a product that will satisfy all your distilling needs!


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How ToRecipes

Make trash: wine or moonshine by BigCliveDotCom


While it’s usually perfectly legal to brew your own wine, beer or cider at home, it may not be legal to distill spirits. Check your local regulations before attempting anything like this. In some countries you may be allowed to distill a small quantity, while in others you may not be allowed to distill spirits at all.

The upside if this is that you will get a much higher quantity of the base wine than you would get with distillation, as there are modest losses in the process unless you use professional equipment.
This video is basically an insight into making a generic wine base for the addition of fruit cordials for flavoring, or even distillation of that base into a spirit in countries that permit it. Rather than go the traditional route of fermenting real fruit slowly over a long period of time, I show the absolute trash approach of banging out something that can be made in a week or less, and rivals the luridly flavored adult alcopops often sold as “cider” which often have no connection to actual apples at all other than the flavorings and bulk addition of malic acid.
This information is provided for scientific interest and not with an intent to turn you all into raving alcoholics.

Even if you’re not really into drinking alcoholic beverages, brewing and distillation is still quite an interesting subject with lots of diverse information on the Internet.

You can chuck me a dollar for moonshine and cookies at if you wish.



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Fermentation Equipment


A big part of distilling at home, is understanding what tools you need to for fermenting what will eventually be your final product. The following below is an excerpt from the author Rick Moriss’ The Joy of Home Distilling:

Before you can start to ferment, you first need to gather the equipment necessary to get you all the way through the process. There are many fine “starter kits” available through homebrew and winemaking supply stores that will include all of the basic pieces necessary to complete fermentation and prepare you for the next step. If you do not have a homebrew supply store near you, there are many such stores online that specialize in this type of equipment. Although we are focusing on fermenting for the ultimate production of spirits, and therefore there are pieces in some equipment kits that you will not require, we will discuss the equipment that is used in winemaking and brewing, as well, so you understand what these pieces of equipment are and what they are used for and you can decide which kit would be best for you.

Fermenter: This is a fancy word for a food-grade bucket. Because there are generally two steps in winemaking during fermentation, you may see this called a “primary” or “primary fermenter,” meaning that it is used in the first stage of the fermentation process. They may have a loose-fitting lid or a sealed lid with a hole to allow the gases formed during fermentation to escape. Either is fine, although I am partial to a sealed fermenter, as it helps avoid surrounding air, which contains oxygen and contaminants that can spoil your wash. You will hear people talk about using trash cans or a host of other containers as fermenters, but you want to ensure that you are using a food-grade container if you are making food-grade spirits. If your intention is to make only fuel-grade alcohol, then obviously it is not necessary to use a food-grade fermenter. A proper, food-grade fermenter is an inexpensive piece of equipment, usually under $20, so here is not a place to try to cut costs. You will generally want a primary fermenter that is at least 20 percent larger than your batch size to allow space for the foam that will build at the start of the fermentation process. For certain types of product, such as grains, molasses, or fruit, it may even be necessary to allow more space, as the layer of foam could grow to an inch or two. Using too small of a primary fermenter can lead to one heck of a mess!

For more you can check out the book:



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How ToRecipes

Making moonshine – A Preppers guide

This is a basic guide for making moonshine. Its is my belief that when the SHTF moonshine will become a bartering currency. It can be used as a first aid item, a antiseptic and antibacterial cleansing agent, a sanitizer, fire fuel, E85 fuel, drinking, and a bartering item. Rubbing alcohol costs about $12 per gallon to buy. Moonshine cost at most $8 per/gallon to make.

***Moonshine is dangerous to make and drink. You can get yourself or others poisoned if consumed too much, blow up your house, or go blind. If you blow up your house, its your fault and yours only for attempting to make moonshine. Moonshine is illegal. If you get caught making moonshine, you will go to jail. This video is for informational purposes only! Make moonshine at your own risk.***

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